This page is basically a reference point for my use. I’ll post any Chrysler Valiant related info I may later need to refer back
to here.
Cams
Crow Cams
http://www.crowcams.com.au/templates/Catalogue-ChryslerHemi6.shtml
Hydraulic Lifter Camshafts
PART NO. VALVE TIMING DUR .050″ DUR. VALVE LIFT POWER RANGE PART KIT COMMENTS
6613 IN.16/58
EX.65/19 254
264 194
202 .441″
.470″ 1000
3800 K601 High torque, fuel efficient cam with smooth idle. Excellent for towing.
6771 IN.19/59
EX.63/19 258
262 200
205 .457″
.470″ 1200
4200 K601 L.P.Gas cam for good power and fuel economy in standard motor.
6602 IN.26/64
EX.66/24 270
270 208
208 .484″
.484″ 1500
4500 K601 Improves throttle response, good highway cam for mild or stock engines.
67761 IN.25/63
EX.74/24 268
278 204
214 .470″
.480″ 1700
4700 K602 Increased mid range power with minimum effect on fuel economy and idle quality.
66031 IN.32/68
EX.72/28 280
280 214
214 .510″
.510″ 1800
4800 K602 Designed to give maximum performance and driveability in street modified engines.
67701 IN.29/71
EX.78/32 280
290 214
224 .510″
.510″ 2000
5000 K602 Dual pattern profile for hot street modified engines.
66861 IN.33/67
EX.69/31 280
280 224
224 .501″
.501″ 2500
5300 K602 High performance street cam for modified engine with improved carburation.
67031 IN.45/83
EX.85/43 308
308 232
232 .477″
.477″ 2800
5800 K602 E49 reproduction cam for hot street engines.
66905 IN.43/77
EX.79/41 300
300 240
240 .550″
.550″ 3000
6000 K6043 High lift cam for maximum street/strip performance.
6900 Custom ground billet, Hydraulic profile using selected master.
6901 Custom ground billet, Hydraulic profile using 2 masters or modified lobe centres.
Solid Lifter Camshafts
PART NO. DESCRIPTION
6900 Custom ground billet, Hydraulic profile using selected master.
6901 Custom ground billet, Hydraulic profile using 2 masters or modified lobe centres.
Performance Matched Valve Train Kits
KIT NO. VALVE LIFTER VALVE SPRING SPRING RETAINER VALVE COLLETS VALVE SEALS TIMING SET COMMENTS
K601 HT2011 5091-12 12700-12 121027 HR229 CS6265 Suit mild cams.
K602 HT2011R 7736-12 12700-12 121027 HR229 CS6265 Suit hot cams no machining required.
K603 HT2011R 6426-123,4 12700-12 121027 S63 CS6265> Double spring kit.
K604 HT2011R 7328-123,4 12710-12 121027 S63 CS6265 Competition double valve spring.
Performance Valve Train Components
PART NO. DESCRIPTION PART NO. DESCRIPTION
PR50556 Chromoly race p’rod std length HT2011 Hydraulic Lifter
PR5060 Chromoly race p’rod + .050″ HT2011R High Performance Hydraulic Lifter
PR50656 Chromoly p’rod + 0.100″ suit solid lifter. AT2084 Solid Lifter
60062 15 Tooth Oil Pump Gear CS6265 Double Row Roller Chain Set
CROW PIPES available to suit some models using this engine, see catalogue for details.
FITTING NOTES
The cams listed above must be used with a 15 tooth oil pump gear part No. 60062 .
1. Must use performance springs 4. Must use performance seal
2. Must use performance retainers 5. Notes 1 to 4 all apply to this part number.
3. Machining required to fit these components 6. Check rocker geometry before ordering p’rod.
7. Check valves before ordering collets.
DIFF INFO
any centre out of a BW 78 series will fit
the ones that look the same but come out of the Independent rear suspension GM cars won’t as far as i know i.e M76 M80 M90
see this page
http://www.spiceraxle.com.au/products.htm
look for the M78
so you can add
3rd gen camaro and firebird to the list
ours is the seperated cone one not the hydratrack
to fit a 28 spline 4 pinion centre
you need
25 spline cones
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Street-and-Strip-Gears_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2QQtZkm
these guys do em new
you also need 25 spline side gears
these come out of 25 spline LSD centres
or i think but have not yet confirmed
you can use the side gears out of an open diff and get the back machined down flat like the LSD ones
now the issue comes as to wether the cones are too small for the diff hemispheres
if either one is worn past its sell by date the cone will bottom out in the hemisphere
to sort this you can get the end of the cone cut down so it sits in the housing deeper and take up the slack with shims
however the more you grind the outerface of ya cones down the more likley you are to twist the end off the axle shaft as the splined area in the cone centre is reduced
i posted up a load of US sourced BW diff guff on the H6p knowledge base in the section tech and genral articles
here is a bit of it (see the stuff below)
there is also a PDF on the same post at H6p outlining the above proccedure to repair a worn out friction cone diff.
you will need to be a member to get it
http://www.hemi6pack.com/forum/local_links.php?catid=7
beware none of this is tested and was written by Americans based on what they know about an Austrlian product that has no support stateside
enjoy comment point out the errors
but before we start here is a nice diff cover with intregral support that fits a BW M78
http://www.taperformance.com/rearend.htm
look at the one for GM9bolt australian borg warner
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The following is ripped from www.Thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/ an F-body Camaro/Firebird site in the US.
Both cars from 82-92 used Borg Warner 78 series diffs.
The majority with 3.23:1 or 3.45:1 ratio gears on a 4 pinion, friction Cone LSD. Early 82 is 2 pinion a la valiant.
These rear ends are hard to repair in the US due to a total lack of support from GM , GMs standard replacement, should the Borgy die was the Dana 44.
US ebay motors is a fine source for parts and you will not be competing against any Holden lovin dudes for your sure grip centre.
Flex the Mastercard, the exchange rate is lovely, come on in.
A Borg Warner 78 is known as the GM 9 bolt in the US.
Posi is a GM term for a LSD centre
search ebay for GM 9 bolt Posi and find yourself a 4 pinion sure grip centre. current rate seems to be 50-100 USD
Thanks to original poster Drain89
Enjoy
(I am not responsible for any inaccuracy in the following)
Dave the Pom AKA dave999
RT2bbl 439
London England
PS
I have also attached a file that outlines how to repair the friction cones in the BWM78 series 4 pinion diff centre. its available on the net but hard to find
from Drain89
The Borg Warner 9 Bolt Rear-end is actually called the M78 Rear-end or “78 series”. It has been made since the late 60’s in Australia by a company called BTR Engineering Ltd. BTR was bought out by Borg-Warner under which company name the rears were produced for our cars. In the last few years Borg-Warner was bought out by Dana Corp. and the rears are still produced by Dana today in the same BTR factory under the “Spicer Axles Australia” name. www.spiceraxle.com.au/products.htm#srd
The rear is officially rated @ 220 kW = 295 HP
@ 435 Nm = 320 lb/ft
It can support a GVW of 2740 kg = 6041 lbs
The above ratings seem to be a bit conservative, as one member I know of has one that has survived the abuse of a 500hp/500+ lb/ft Big Block for a few years now. Being a 4 pinion design adds strength and as noted on his site http://www.diffsolutions.com/ the 9 bolt uses a shorter distance between bearing caps than the 10 bolt giving it added strength.
All 9 bolt rears for f-bodies use 28 spline axles.
Another advantage over the 10 bolt is it uses pressed on tapered axle bearings allowing the axles to be bolted in instead of using c-clips. I’ve heard several people say the 9bolt is stronger than the Dana 44. I do not believe this because in my 3 years of accumulating info on this matter, I’ve never seen one shred of FACT to support it. The Dana 44 uses bolt in axles and has a larger 8.5″ dia. ring gear versus the 9 bolts 7.75″ dia. ring gear. Most, if not all Posi Dana 44’s built for camaro’s were 4 pinion versions also. Dana 44’s were used by GM as service/warranty replacements for problematic 9 and 10 bolt rears, then offered them thru GM Performance Parts, and they were then used on the 91-92 firehawks if that tells you anything.
85-90 9 bolt equipped f-bodies were available with either standard open differentials or limited slip versions as well as several different ratios including: 2.77, 3.08, 3.27 (G92 w/auto), 3.45 (G92 w/stick), and a few 3.70 ratio’s came in some 85 & 86 Firebird’s w/L69, stick & G92=Very Rare!
3.27 and numerically higher gears will not fit on 3.08 and numerically down carriers. If you have a 2.77 or 3.08 rear and want 3.27 or higher you will have to get a 3 series carrier. http://www.9bolt.com/ sells them new but he’s steep and that is if he feels like selling you one.
The “Limited Slip” or “posi” rears used on f-bodies used what is called the “Separated Cone Slip Resistant Differential”.
They also make a better version called the Hydratrak SRD but it uses a different spline count on the axles preventing it from being a direct swap into our rears
Vehicles originally equipped with the 9 bolt rear:
Australian made cars: Certain models of Ford Falcons since 1971, Holden Commodores from 1986 thru 1991, Chrysler Valiants since 1971, certain Aussie made Toyota Corrollas & Coronas, Nissan R31 Skylines/Pintaras & certian Datsun’s, Mitsubishi Sigmas, Leyland P76s …1997-up Morgan Plus 8s have the Hydratrak version. In the UK the rears were used on certain Vauxhall models and Jensen-Healey’s.
I’ve also heard that Ford uses the 9 bolt centre section in their Escapes and Mazda Tributes, but I haven’t verified it yet.
The Nissan Australia PN for 3.9 gears is 38100-J7100
3.7 gears were used in R31 Skylines with manual trans, the PN for those gears is 38100-J7110
4.1 gears were used in R31 Pintara’s (manual or auto) and the PN is 38100-J7000
Holden’s and Fords got nothing shorter than 3.45 gears AFAIK.
In 1998 the Australian magazine “Street Machine” did a series of articles on this rear axle, I am still waiting for my copy of those articles to arrive.
Post 2
Here is some info on checking and tightening them up by using shims. This info is from a post originally done by Karl Hunter and info provided by Miles from 9bolt.com.
The posi units of 9 bolts will wear. One of the most common reasons a 9 bolt fails is due to excessive backlash between the ring gear and pinion (usually due to worn out pinion bearings or improper pinion preload) or between the side gear and the pinion gears (usually due to worn out brake (i.e. posi) cones). Either of these usually results in broken gear teeth.
TESTING THE POSI
1. Place transmission in Park (or low gear for manual transmission).
2. Raise rear tires from the ground.
3. Lock one wheel from rotating.
4. Measure torque required to rotate opposite wheel.
5. If torque is less than 35 lb ft unit should be replaced or rebuilt.
CARRIER SHIMMING
First you need to find shims. There is no G.M. part for this, you just have to use whatever is available.
You need a variety of thickness of shims ranging from .010″ to .050″ in .005″ increments. Some types of differential pinion bearing shims will work for this purpose, but use ones with a Max Outside Diameter of 2.5″ and a Min Inside diameter of 1.5″
Mount one axle in a LARGE bench vise with splined end pointing straight up. The vise must be securely mounted to a strong table or work bench.
Place the differential carrier over the splined end of the axle with the ring gear teeth facing downwards.
Mark the 2 halves of the housing for alignment during re-assembly.
Loosen the bolts that hold the housing together. (the ones with the 7/16″ head) It is not necessary to remove the ring gear, however if it is to be removed it should be marked prior to disassembly for proper re-alignment.
Once all the bolts holding the housing together have been fully loosened remove the upper carrier housing from the assembly. All the internal parts for the differential are now accessible. Each half of the carrier houses a friction cone and a side gear. All parts must be kept in order. Place match marks on the cross shaft and spider gears prior to removal. There should also be a spring pack in the centre of the assembly, which should have 3 springs together. G.M. recommends replacing these springs anytime the differential is apart, but if they are not broken this should not be necessary. If any other parts are broken it is recommended to find a complete replacement for the carrier, however single parts such as side gears or spider gears may be replaced individually in emergency situations. If a friction cone is worn to the point where the end of the cone is contacting the housing at the inner most point (it will be evident by the wear pattern) then the carrier must be replaced.
Place the friction cone in its respective half of the housing and insert a shim between the side gear and the cone. Place the cross shaft with spider gears on top of the cone and gear in the housing. If the cross shaft seats fully into the housing and there is play between the spider gears and the side gear then use a larger shim. The idea is to remove all play in the gears while still allowing the cross shaft to seat fully in the housing. If too big a shim is used then the cross shaft will not seat properly and the assembly will bind causing the differential to act like a spool or possibly cause premature failure.
Install brake cones in the differential case. Measure the distance from differential case mating surface to flat surface on brake cone when it is fully seated. This is done to determine the size brake cone shim required.
Distance Measured In.(mm) Shim Size In.(mm)
1.155-1.162 (29.34-29.51) No shim required
1.163-1.167 (29.54-29.64) .005 (.13)
1.168-1.172 (29.67-29.77) .010 (.25)
ADVANCED SETUP- SOFT FEEL shim each side until all play is removed and cross shaft seats properly in case, then remove .005 to .010 inch of shim.
ADVANCED SETUP- HARD FEEL shim each side until all play is removed and cross shaft seats properly in case and add up to BUT NO MORE THAN .005″ of shim per side. This will provide additional preload to the differential that is not possible unless the gears themselves are loaded. RECOMMENDED FOR RACE USE ONLY. If the vehicle is to be street driven on a regular basis it is not recommended to preload the gears.
The optimal amount of shim for Street-Race use is the point where all play is removed from the side gears and the cross shaft and spider gears seat properly in the housing. All one wheel peel will be eliminated and the differential will still operate normally.
RE-ASSEMBLY (This part is easier with 2 people)
Place components into case half without ring gear and place onto axle mounted in vise. It is important to re-assemble the case using the axles to align the internal components, otherwise the splines on the side gear and the friction cone may not be aligned and it will be impossible to insert the axle when the case is tightened.
Place cross shaft with spider gears into lower half of case and insert preload springs and spring plates.
Place other side gear on top of spider gears, then place the correct shim on top of the side gear then place the friction cone on top. All components should now be in place and in correct alignment. Double check to make sure there are no left over parts.
Place other case half over the assembly. Make sure the alignment marks line up.
Insert all bolts and hand tighten. The case may not seem to go together at this point, don’t worry, the preload springs have not been compressed yet.
Insert other axle shaft into upper case half and align friction cone and side gear. Do not remove axle shafts until carrier is re-torqued.
Tighten bolts little by little in a cross-pattern until the 2 case halves seat together then torque to 29 Lb.Ft.
Remove axle from upper case half (you may have to hammer it out) and remove carrier from axle mounted in vise.
Re-install carrier into housing making sure all parts are re-installed in original order. It will be a tight fit, one side bearing shim will have to be GENTLY tapped into place with a hammer, preferably a brass faced, or use a brass drift. Install all components except one side gear shim, then do the remaining side gear shim last and gently tap it into place.
Install bearing caps in original positions and torque to 40 Lb.Ft.
Install axles. They may need some persuasion with a hammer to fully seat. Tighten axle retainer bolts to 36 Lb.Ft. Don’t forget the caliper mounting plates.
POST3
TORQUE SPECS:
Pinion Bearing Preload-Inch Lbs. NEW 12-15 USED 6-7
Ring Gear Bolts-Ft Lbs. 65
Bearing Cap Bolts-Ft Lbs. 45
Axle Retainer Bolts-Ft Lbs. 36
Rear Cover Bolts-Ft Lbs. 25
Carrier Half Bolts-Ft Lbs. 29
Fluid Capacity with stock cover 1.7 qts
Backlash-.006-.010 inch
One of the most common reasons a 9 bolt fails is due to excessive backlash between the ring gear and pinion (usually due to worn out pinion bearings or improper pinion preload) or between the side gear and the pinion gears (usually due to worn out brake (ie posi) cones). Either of these usually results in broken gear teeth.
Set up the gear sets with a little more toe pattern and on the low side for backlash (preferrably between .006-.008). This is a little stronger, but also makes more noise. Also, if the backlash is set too low
the gears will bind up when hot.
Here’s a link to Slow89Iroc-Z’s post on his setup experience AND the exploded views and pn’s of the 9bolt rear from the GM parts catalogs:
http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=239424
POST 4 US parts suppliers
RATECH www.ratechmfg.com/gmstandard.htm
Great source for individual parts.
Pinion Shims 1104*
Severe Duty Pinion Shims 1133*
Carrier Shims 1105
Crush Sleeve 3101^
Solid Pinion Spacer 4114 (Replaces 3101)
Pinion Seal 6120
Pinion Nut 1508
RG Bolts 1303*
Gasket 5124
Inner Pinion Bearing? Check yours and then check with ratech-they list 3 different ones for some reason
Outer Pinion Bearing 8001*
Install Kit (w/0 bearings) 130K
* Denotes same as 7.625″ 10 Bolt
^ Denotes same as Ford 8″ & Dana 35
Reider Racing/Precision Gear- http://www.reiderracing.com/home.htm
Best price I’ve found for an overhaul kit.
They also sell 3.70 Gears
US Gear/Strange 3.70 Ring/Pinion Set Part # 01-878370BW sometimes you can find one somewhere cheap on clearance.
Auto Zone has the cheapest price on Timken Axle Bearings (8.99 each) Part # Set-9. You’ll need to replace the seals also, available seperately timken part # 710179 for the passenger side (9.99) and 224255 (3.99) for the driver’s side.
They also sell Timken pinion seals part # 7457N (15.99)
Randy’s Ring and Pinion sells Yukon Brand 3.70 gears and install or overhaul kits. They are the best price for them with an overhaul kit and new axle bearings and seals you’ll find, but I hear the overhaul kit has some mismatched parts.
Ratech or Reider have competitive prices on their overhaul kits and their parts are all top quality including Timken Bearings and Seals.
Larry Burd larryburd@mail.com sells shims to tighten your posi.
And lastly, DiffSolutions http://www.9bolt.com/ – Miles is the only vendor I know of who sells ratio’s other than 3.70. Somehow he’s got a hookup in Australia and can get the OEM Holden/Ford stuff imported.
He offers used sets from time to time and offers new 3.27, 3.45, 3.73. 3.91, and 4.10 ratios. They’re high, but they’re OEM parts. He also offers new 3 series carriers. He can get shims and install kits but his prices are considerably higher than others. Also, You’ll have to convice him you’re serious about buying something before he’ll email you back.
If you desperately need small parts for inside the posi carrier and can’t find them locally you may try **** Craft.
Craft Differentials
5 Peel Street, Granville
NSW, Australia
Phone 61 2 9637 1973
ADDING STRENGTH TO A 9BOLT REAR:
This is what I’ve done to mine, my car is not finished so it hasn’t been tested yet.
-Replace bearing cap bolts with ARP 190,000 psi cap screws. I ordered mine direct from ARP. Cost me like $15 for the 4 of them. Cheap insurance. You could use studs instead of bolts for slightly more strength. TA Performance will be offering a bearing cap stud kit soon.
-Ratech Solid Pinion Spacer 4114 instead of using crush sleeve.
-Ratech Severe Duty Pinion Shims 1133. Adds reliability plus makes changing gears easier.
-Dry Film Lubricant on ring and pinion as well as internal carrier gears. I used Tech Line brand and applied it myself. Just check with your wife first before using the oven to cure it…..trust me! Seriously though, it’s cheap insurance and you can get it from Jegs or Summit.
-Check posi and shim/tighten if necessary.
-A support cover would be a great addition and I’m working with TA Performance to try to get one made. Hopefully soon!
-Another option is Moser Axles. You’ll probably break the gears first, but if you think it’s necessary….they’ll make you a set. I didn’t think they were worth it.
